super duper, come let's mix where rockefellers walk with sticks

I've already professed my affection for the sadly late Hudson and Halls (they made a chicken salad and named it after a New Zealand beauty queen!) but it's the kind of thing that I can easily re-profess without feeling like I've exhausted my capacity for...professing stuff. Their cookbooks were so full of enjoyment and playfulness and humour. Which cookbooks often completely lack. They'd write "nothing is more boring to do than pickled onions, but despite this, these are worth doing", beside a recipe for pickled onions. Cute, right? Always remembering, they were figures of entertainment at a time when being themselves - being gay - was illegal. As I've said, we're not exactly in a progressive wonderland these days, but I wonder what their lives together could've been under a somewhat more supportive environment. While your time wouldn't be misspent just reading through their cookbooks tittering at their formidably late-seventies recipes - Tomato Sorbet, Egg Mayonnaise with Olives, Tripe Fritters, Steak Tartare Balls with Caviar...Coffee...there are also heaps of practical, easy, fun recipes that you could try making. 

Recipes like their Super-duper Pancake. I promise you it's totally deserving of that intensifying "-duper" suffix on the end there. That grammatical flourish was not in vain. 

It looks like there's a benignly smiling bearded face in that pancake, right? Is it just me projecting my loving feelings towards the pancake, onto the pancake? I think yes. And yes. Also please excuse my unpleasingly granular photography, it must've been darker than I thought when I took the photos. It'll make you appreciate it more when they improve, though!

This is really your average Yorkshire Pudding - you could always use it for that - and I love that H&H suggest it as a meal in itself, "with lemon wedges and sugar, or little bits of fried sausage and pickles"...very cool. They recommend using a paella dish but I don't have one of those, or a frying pan that can go in the oven, but I suspected that my ancient pie plate would do the trick. It did. Which makes me think you could make this in nearly anything ovenproof and round, as long as it has walls - a caketin would probably work just fine.  

Such little effort and you end up with this puffy, crisp disc of daffodill-coloured, comforting goodness. Somehow it tastes like french toast, pastry, scrambled eggs and yes, pancake, all at once. That's some high-level complexity from just eggs, flour, milk and butter. I served it alongside steak and an avocado-spinach salad but on its own it'd be brilliant. 

Super-duper Pancake

From Hudson and Halls Gourmet Cookbook.

25g butter

3 eggs

3/4 cup milk

3/4 cup flour

Put the butter in your chosen pan and place it in a 225 C oven to heat up and sizzle away while you mix the batter. Beat the eggs till light and fluffy, then gradually beat in the milk. This is what's going to make it puff up so try not to be lazy with the whisking effort at this stage. Whisk in the flour, making sure there's no lumps, then quickly pour the batter into the hot, buttery tin. Place quickly back in the oven, bake for 20-25 minutes and serve immediately in the pan. Just slice it up or rip bits off, as you please. 

Two things happened when I made this which might have something to do with the pan I used. First: some of the butter pooled on top in the centre of the pancake. To the uninitiated it might look a little terrifying, I took it within my stride (the only alarming butter situation I can think of is if there is none) and reframed the pancake as 'considerately self-buttering.' Also some of the surface coating of the pan flaked off and stuck to the pancake. Slightly disturbing, but...I ate it anyway. Hope it doesn't happen to you.

The recipe on the page opposite the Super-duper pancake is equally compelling - Scrambled Eggs with Vermouth. How good does that sound? I'd need to actually get some vermouth first, the last time I had it was in 2008 - you can see it in the header photo - before I could even pronounce it properly. They say "As this is rather nice for breakfast, serve it with some chilled champagne and follow with fresh fruit and cream laced with a liqueur." Wherever you are, Hudson and Halls...cheers.

Talking of luxuriating in food, I recently had my misanthropic tendencies gently sieved out when something really lovely happened: I got invited to try out 'The Deg' degustation at Matterhorn, one of the fancy-pantsiest joints in the whole country. Yes, invited. My first degustation. Very exciting. Eventually Tim and I hope to feel like we're not in some kind of Home Alone 2-esque heist whenever things like this happen. The food was ornately exquisite the whole way through, with matched cocktails - beautifully dry - and wines - nicer than we've ever drank - and not in an intimidating way either, but also not so unintimidating that you leave thinking you could've done it yourself, you know? The person in charge of us was charming and engaging and gave us plenty of exposition on each course and - this always puts me in a good mood, so keep it in mind - they talked to us about the food and wine as if they thought we knew exactly what they were talking about. Did I explain that right? We weren't talked down to, is what I'm saying. So if you're really comfortable with your bank balance I do recommend it because it was an absolutely glorious evening. Fun fact: on our first course we raised a toast. To the internet. For getting us to dinner at the Matterhorn. Truly, we clinked our glasses and said "thank you, Internet." (It was my suggestion, Tim might not've been so enthusiastic or loud.) Also, even though it sometimes feels like one of those things you do to prove you're having fun, we spent some time making up dialogue for various diners around us, which was all very humourous until this couple opposite us had such gloomy body language that it wasn't as fun anymore. Where was I? Matterhorn. Delicious.

It's been a simple weekend, but I've managed to spend much of it with beloved friends, which is worth more than a billion degustations laid end to end so they reach the sun, or something.
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Title via: Puttin' On The Ritz, that intriguingly arranged song which hoofer Fred Astaire totally owns - his subtlety and assuredness in this tap dancing number is utterly brilliant. Fun fact: I once ambitiously choreographed, taught and danced in a dance to this for some choir performance thing in primary school, when I was about ten. It wasn't, er, quite as good as Fred Astaire's, and our canes were bits of dowelling, but if I remember right it was quite well received.
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Music lately:

Be warned: Will Swenson (erstwhile cast member of erstwhile Broadway show Hair) is one of THE most beautiful people on earth. And in this song Donna from Hair, he's NOT WEARING PANTS. So. Also he has an amazing voice and we both dance very similarly, which is always something that endears me to people. (A further fun fact!)

R.I.P Etta James.
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Next time: I've been working on some sorbet using Whittaker's Berry and Biscuit chocolate. That is all.

i'm miss world watch me break

You just don't see elaborate dishes created in people's honour these days. I mean, there are those so established that you forget - Peach Melba, Fettuccine Alfredo, Margherita Pizza, Beef Stroganoff... but nothing like the "Souffle Bowes-Lyon" from the QEII recipe book I once bought from an op shop, very 1980s with its tales of how much champagne they go through weekly and chilled gazpacho and colour plates of extremely tanned people with large hair.

A couple of years back Mum sent me a Hudson and Halls cookbook, and then this year at the library book sale I picked up another of theirs - a plastic-wrapped cookbook called Favourite Recipes from Hudson and Halls. Published in 1985, its black, dustjacketed cover has H & H in tuxedoes gazing solemnly at the reader, positioned in front of various items on a bookshelf and dresser - a clock, a lamp, a trumpet, 'A Woman of Substance'. Inside, their forward foreword breaks formalities with its "we have cooked together for nigh on twenty years, some of it good...some of it not so good!" Inside I found a recipe for Chicken Salad Lorraine with Peanut Cream Sauce which they named for 1983's Miss World, New Zealand's Lorraine Downes. I love a recipe with a decent backstory like that and I also really love peanut sauce...win win.

An often quoted line of theirs is "are we gay? Well we're certainly merry". With hindsight there's sadness in that while the studio audience of their TV show would drink their wine and laugh at their comic timing, some kind of societal necessity prevented any actual openness at how this was a TV show fronted by two men in love with each other. At the time of the cookbook itself being published, the problematically worded, but comparatively progressive Homosexual Law Reforms were only just coming into effect in New Zealand. We don't exactly live in a liberal wonderland right now, and I'm no expert on the history of NZ's gay rights, but certainly leaps and bounds have been made since. As I'm privileged to have the world I live in and the media I consume largely reflect my own life, I can only guess at what it would have been like for H&H back then. I do know they wouldn't have been the only ones in their position.

I'm not sure if it's a mid-eighties thing or what, but H&H specified melons (oh my!) in the salad and much as I'm fairly adventurous, I wasn't quite ready for it covered in peanut sauce...I figured the easier-found cucumber was within the same gene pool and along with some capsicum, would provide colour and juicy crunch. As I switched the required egg noodles for a lighter-textured pile of slippery, soft rice noodles, there's nothing stopping you swapping the chicken for slices of fresh, firm tofu. And the more I think about it, the more it feels like peanut sauce on melons would have worked just fine...if you try it yourself, let me know!

There is on youtube an opportunity to see H&H in action which, apart from their merry chemistry, is a joy in itself as a slice of New Zealand television at the time - the giant electric frypan, the grey animated opening titles, the pinkly lit background of the studio kitchen. They snap and banter with each other, and burst into laughter. As Hudson spoons ingredients into a pan, listing them aloud, Halls interrupts offscreen with "Garlic?" to which Hudson responds "I haven't got there yet, could you just mind your own business?" But then Hudson throws out the aside of "very good for the wrist action" while grinding pepper, which, while not as camp as Halls' crying "Isn't he wonderful!" while throwing his hands joyfully in the air, is still the sort of thing that continues to raise eyebrows when Nigella says it over 20 years later. I could go on and recreate an entire transcript but you might as well watch it - it's wonderful stuff.

Chicken Salad Lorraine with Peanut Cream Sauce

With thanks to Hudson and Halls

300g good, free-range chicken thighs

1 stick of carrot, a few peppercorns, a bay leaf, coriander seeds and sprig of thyme if you have it

1/2 a lemon

1/2 a cucumber

1 yellow (or red or orange) capsicum

Peanut or sesame oil

Spring onions (optional)

Dressing

3 heaped tablespoons smooth peanut butter

1/4 cup stock (from poaching the chicken)

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 clove garlic, crushed

small piece of ginger, peeled and grated or finely minced

1 teaspoon sugar

Juice from the other 1/2 a lemon

Tobasco or other hot sauce

About 1/2 cup of cream or thick Greek yoghurt or sour cream.

Egg or rice noodles to serve.

Place chicken thighs in a pan and just cover with water. Add the carrot stick, bay leaf, peppercorns, seeds and thyme (I didn't have any thyme but it still tasted all good) and turn on the heat, allowing the water to simmer and bubble away gently till the chicken is no longer pink and seems tender - around 15-20 minutes. Remove the chicken to a chopping board and get rid of the spices and things. Bring the remaining liquid to the boil and let it reduce somewhat. Shred the chicken or slice into bite-size chunks. Poached chicken thighs aren't the sexiest to look at, but there'll be plenty of distracting colour later on.

Set aside 1/4 cup of the stock for the peanut sauce, and top up the remaining stock in the pan with water, bring to the boil and cook your noodles in it according to packet instructions. Drain the noodles, toss with the peanut or sesame oil, and divide between two plates.

Slice the capsicum and the cucumber into sticks, and arrange on top of the noodles along with the chicken. Finally, whisk together the dressing ingredients (or you could blast them in a food processor) till very smooth. Drizzle the sauce over the two plates of salad, scatter with spring onions or coriander if using.

Note: I didn't have a lemon or cream, but I did have some amazingly thick, tangy Zany Zeus Greek yoghurt which I figured would cover off both needs. It did, and how. Sour Cream would probably be great as well, or you could just leave out the dairy altogether and replace the stock with water (or vegetable stock).

Serves 2

Lorraine Downes' name was not taken in vain here - this salad is stunning. Though, it was easier for me to arrange it between two plates rather than put it all in a bowl, so I'm not quite sure if it really even is a salad still. Oh well - the poached chicken is amazingly tender, the peanut sauce is thick but light, blanketing the crunchy vegetables and soft, deliciously bland noodles. I just love peanut sauce but even so, the mix of textures and tastes is wonderful and it's a great dinner on one of those evenings that is hot, but not so hot that you only want to eat an ice cube for dinner.

There's plenty to love in this book, especially the descriptions before each dish - some of it practical, some hilarious ("once met someone who was on a diet and was drinking rum essence in diet cola...it tasted abysmal.") When you turn to the back cover, they're on a farm, Hudson is wearing a bucket hat and sunglasses and leaning on a spade, while Halls wears tiny shorts and has a rifle casually swung over his shoulder while lunging against a fence - two large black dogs sit beside them. Hudson died of cancer in 1992 and Halls left pretty soon after him. Their books aren't so easy to track down - while they might be due for a reprint sometime soon, it's worth hunting next time you're in an op shop or at a book fair. They're a lesser known chapter of New Zealand history, not to mention there aren't many other places these days you'll find a salad named after a 1983 beauty queen.

Tim and I were at Wellington's opening night of Rocky Horror Show at the St James tonight - it was an absolutely incredible show, I seriously recommend you go along if you're even halfway curious. The staging, the quality of the acting and singing, and the sheer energy is all turned up to eleven and besides, watching an audience so joyfully receive music - it's a beautiful thing. Obviously it was exciting to see the strangely ageless Richard O'Brien who created the show, star as narrator (the round of applause on his entrance brought the performance to a halt) and you gotta hand it to Kristian Lavercombe playing O'Brien's original role of Riff Raff with such wicked aplomb. Special mention must go to Juan Jackson who played Frank'n'Furter; he barely needed acting ability with his charismatic muscle structure, but luckily he could emote realistically, sing like the great-grandchild of Paul Robeson, and skip carelessly in platform heels. Being a rock opera it maintains a cracking pace - it's easy to forget just how many incredible songs are crammed into this one wonderful show.

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Title via: Hole's Miss World from Live Through This. Have much love for Courtney.

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Music lately:

I've been trying to avoid Christmas songs but seeing as it's December 1st (eeeeek!) I've indulged myself with the sublimely ridiculous Turkey Lurkey Time from Promises Promises. Seriously, just watch it.

As well as the seasonal stuff I've been listening to a fair few John Peel compilations lately - which means Buzzcocks, What Do I Get/Lion Rock by Culture etc etc...

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Next time: For some reason this blog post took me forever to get done, and I guess things are only going to get busier from here on in...but hopefully I'll get another blog post in before the end of the week, it'll either be something vegetable-based (woo!) or this amazing cake recipe I found which has mayonnaise (what!) in it.