you got it allison. you got it raw!

It is crunch time. The time is crunchy. There is less than a month till my manuscript is due, and just over a month till Tim and I go to America for a holiday. We've been having three photoshoots a week, we're surrounded by cakes, and it was only as I, with primal instinct, rapidly transferred handfuls of fresh clean spinach leaves by the handful into my mouth while Celine Dion's Power of Love played in my head, that I realised I haven't eaten a lot of vegetables lately. I'd like to add that I'm not saying this in a "now I need to go for a jog to work it off!" kind of way. Just that my nutrition has been at the mercy of whatever it is I happen to be preparing for photoshoots on a given day. And: I feel great!

I couldn't be happier. It's like being in a montage! Here are some fleeting scenes that have been part of it all lately:

- Did I mention Tim and I are surrounded by cake. At first it was a novelty, and then I felt horrible that it was no longer a novelty, so I've been trying hard to make myself feel like it is, by constantly saying "look at all this cake! What a novelty! What is life?"
- I was on the way to the supermarket today to pick up some ingredients, checked the mail on the way, only to find a letter from Mum to find a much needed, much appreciated supermarket voucher.
- I had to make a pavlova at 11pm on Friday while feeling a little queasy. Said pavlova inevitably failed, when I went to check on it the next morning. A  snap decision was made to make another one again, an hour before a photoshoot. It mercifully worked.
- Did I mention I was making said pavlovas with nought but a whisk and a bowl (and ingredients too of course, smarty-pants.) Have been pretty much unable to use my right arm ever since. It's weird, because I make cakes and whip cream and so on with a whisk all the time. I think the franticness must've made my muscles extra tensile.
- I have been paying what feels like obscene amounts of money for out-of-season fruit and vegetables. Since winter is here the only thing actually in season is one sole, limp, rapidly browning parsnip. And it is $7.
-Breaking: a hangover from a ridiculously enormous party is not conducive to wanting to test lots of recipes. And yet still I cooked.
- The kindness of friends continues to bring joy. Jo lent me her mother's wonderful pottery and also offered her freezer for excess ice cream storage. She also came up with the use of the word [redacted] for when we're tweeting about recipes for the cookbook. Willow lent me some glorious tablecloths. Martha of Wanda Harland gave our plate collection an early boost by loaning us some beautiful stuff. Jason (one of the photographers) bought pretty much the most stunning dessert spoons I've ever beheld. And it goes on.
- Since I have been making so, so, sososososososososo much food for photoshoots and general recipe testing, it has been persistently difficult to find time and energy and - importantly - general hunger to make food that I can blog about. There's just no chance to be hungry. Don't get me wrong. As far as problems go, this one is pretty wonderful, what with it being because I'm writing a cookbook and all. But still!



This is why these marinated tamarillos are perfect. Sharp, sweet, aromatic, spiced. Small slices with a cracker and some cheese makes for a snack of thrillingly punchy flavour and relief-inducing smallness. Frankly I really just love eating them with a spoon.

Recently I was able to attend a demonstration from Megan at little bird organics. It was a supercool experience, as she took us through making several courses of food - all raw. Their ethos is about food tasting and also making you feel amazing, and this recipe from the evening in particular caught the attention of my tastebuds. Clearly I am not a raw vegan, or even vegetarian, but I enjoy being inspired by people who love food, and being exposed to new ideas. Which is exactly what happened. Thanks so much Megan for allowing me to share this recipe here. Because it is freaking delicious.

Marinated Tamarillos.

With huge thanks again to little bird organics for the recipe, that I have adapted ever-so-slightly. 

8-10 tamarillos

1/4 cup honey

250ml (1 cup) red wine

1 cinnamon stick

2 cloves

Salt

Slice the tops off the tamarillos and using a sharp knife, slice off the skin. Then slice the newly naked tamarillos lengthwise, or however you please, really. Place them in a bowl. Pour over the honey and the wine, spear with the cinnamon stick and the cloves, and grind over plenty of salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. I don't have a dehydrator, but the recipe recommends putting them in it if you do. 

There will be a lot of syrup - I just drained it off. I held on to it because I have a feeling it'll be fantastic topped up with gin and soda.



Something in the salty, wine-deep intensity of these is quite compulsive. I love them. It may look like you're making tons, but you'll get through it all easily, I promise. Best of all, tamarillos are actually in season here and reasonably priced. But once they're gone, I think I'll try making these with sliced pears, and then next Autumn, perhaps I'll make it with feijoas. Inbetween times, I predict this would also be a wonderful marinade for sliced plums...all I'm saying is, there are options for you outside the realm of the tamarillo. But it's a very, very good start.

I saved the best montage scene for last. This afternoon I had to make a [redacted] pudding for tonight's photoshoot. It felt like it was going to be highly straightforward. Well. I screwed it up royally. It did not cook right at all. So I panic-ate it. I just...ate it all, in a kind of fugue state. It felt oddly logical, so I went with it, because that way it would be gone and the ingredients wouldn't be wasted and so on and so forth.

My second attempt at making the pudding failed also. Freaking out about wasting ingredients, about wasting precious time, about this stupid, sodding, straightforward pudding just refusing to work, I may have panic-eaten a goodly proportion of the second one, too. Luckily I came to and binned the rest of it, before my insides corroded. A few prickly, selfish tears were shed, I had some rescue remedy, and looked up pictures of Tom Hardy holding a dog. And, weary but sufficiently emboldened, I made a third go of that pudding. I could feel - perhaps a little irrationally - the ingredients not quite coming together the way I intended them to, but shunted it hatefully into the oven all the same. As soon as I could ascertain that it was not entirely successful, but at least relief-inducingly good-enough...I lay down on the ground and drank some vodka.

Lucky for me I have such a brilliant team in Kate, Jason and Kim. They've been able to make even the most doubtful dishes look so beauteous, it makes me feel this might all come together and...work. As Jessi says to Kristy in the Baby-sitters Club movie, "Kristy, this brilliant idea might actually be brilliant!" (I'm not sure whether the actor is not so great at her job, or the line is so bad that she couldn't do anything with it, either way it's kinda terrible - yet so applicable.)

In the face of all this exciting, tiring, wonderful, stressful, emotional, sugar-soaked, um, stuff, sometimes there is only one response:

A large Campari. If you can't be fancy, you might as well fancy yourself as fancy.

PS: If you're in Wellington and feeling able and up for it, there's a Celebration Rally for Marriage Equality on Wednesday 29 August at noon in Civic Square. This is so important! I'm not sure that I'm going to have time to make a sign or anything, but I'm definitely going to be there. If you're interested, click the link for details.
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Title via: Normally I quote songs but this is a line from a movie - a musical comedy, in fact, but the point is, it is Cry-baby. An over-the-top, hilarious, sweet, wonderfully bizarre movie from John Waters starring a young Johnny Depp who overacts deliciously when saying such quotable lines as the title for this blog post. Also: there is Wanda Woodward. Find it, fast.
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Music lately:

Over at Lani Says I got wise to the ways of Jessie Ware. Her song Wildest Moments is LUSH.

Safety Dance, Men Without Hats. Make of this what you will. I can't help loving this ridiculousness. And if your friends don't dance then they really are no friends of mine.

Never not obsessed with the musical Hair. Here's Flesh Failures/Let The Sun Shine In from the original Broadway cast.
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Next time: Next time, I'll be ever closer to the manuscript due date. And therefore you can look forward to me making even LESS sense than I did in this post. Good times, good times.

every task you undertake, becomes a piece of cake

It was The Spice Girls who first said in their seminal text Wannabe, "now here's the story from A to Z, you wanna get with me you gotta listen carefully". And so it follows that if you wanna get with this cake you too should closely heed this recommendation. I guess what I'm saying is, this cake isn't complicated but there's plenty going on and so you might want to take the following hints into account. And the subtext: I really like quoting the Spice Girls on this blog.

- I can't think of a better way of extracting the juice from the mandarins than peeling the fruit, holding it in your fist and then clenching thoroughly over a receptacle of some kind. It's visceral, it's effective, it neatly does away with including another kitchen implement that you have to wash.
- You can of course use oranges, lemons, grapefruit, limes, any other citrus that I've shamefully failed to name here instead of mandarins.
- The texture of your yoghurt will affect how much icing sugar you need. If it's the more liquidy stuff, more icing sugar. If it's the fabulously whipped-cream thick variety, perhaps less is needed.
- With this in mind, go slowly with adding more yoghurt to the icing or it might all just slide right off the cake and make you nearly cry frustrated tears when you put it on the cake. How do I know? I just do.
- Only arrange the plums just before you serve this. Or they will fall off. They just will. Perhaps it's their passive-aggressive way of reminding us that they're not in season, and therefore they're not going to cooperate with no upstart food blogger.
- This cake is really delicious and not as scary as I'm making it sound.



Mandarin Cake With Yoghurt Icing and Plums

Cake adapted from a recipe in the Best of Cooking for New Zealanders by Lynn Bedford Hall. Icing and stuff all my idea though, for what it's worth.

125ml mandarin juice (this depends on your mandarins, but maybe seven altogether?)
125ml plain oil, like rice bran or grapeseed
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
175 sugar
250g flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch salt

6 plums
3 tablespoons sugar
1 extra mandarin

3 tablespoons plain unsweetened yoghurt
150g icing sugar, plus more if necessary

Set your oven to 170 C and line a 21cm springform tin with baking paper.

Whisk all the cake ingredients together (that's from mandarin juice to the pinch of salt inclusive, by the way) for a few minutes till it forms a thick, pale golden batter. Tip this into the caketin and bake for an hour, though check after 45 minutes. Ovens can be tricksy.

Meanwhile, slice the plums into wedges and place them in a bowl. Sprinkle over the sugar and squeeze over the juice of the mandarin. Leave to sit at least for as long as the cake needs to cook, but overnight is even better.

Once the cake has cooled, whisk together the yoghurt and icing sugar till thick. Add more of either ingredient if necessary. Icing can be tricksy, too. Spread this thickly across the top of the cake, and place the plum slices on top.



Juicy plums, oddly-yet-pleasingly tangy icing, soft-crumbed and sweetly citrussy cake. Worth every Spice Girls quote it took to get to this point (and if you're not weary of Spice Girls quoting, ignore that sentence and instead read this one: Yay, Spice Girls!)

As I said, plums aren't in season, but they were only $6 a kilo and you can hardly get anything for $6 these days. If I sound a little defensive it's only because I recently had the good fortune to meet Nadia Lim, winner of 2011 Masterchef, and she is VERY big on seasonal eating. Which is highly admirable. Sorry to let you down, Nadia, but if it's any consolation, mandarins are in season right now so hard. And these ones couldn't be fresher or more local, as they're from Tim's grandparents' tree in Wairoa.



How did I meet her? My dear friend Jo and I were both invited to her Wellington On A Plate Masterclass by Pead PR. You can read Jo's thoughts on the event here. As well as being a great friend, Jo is also good to hang with at a party. She's all "Oh hey there Mayor Celia Wade-Brown, let's hug and talk about our lives and this is my friend Laura". And she stayed with me right to the end (the champagne helped the time fly by, admittedly) while I waited to meet Nadia and talk with her. Nadia herself should be commended for her massive patience in taking the time to talk to me after having talked to roughly a million other people beforehand. I admit I never actually saw Masterchef - we don't have a TV, and while I love cooking shows I honestly find the hugely competitive ones a little stressful to watch. All that running around and plating up and being edited to look like a mean person! So while I'd heard Nadia Lim's name around, and had read a few interviews with her and such, I didn't have much of a feel for what she was like as a person or a cook. Well, she seems awesome. She's enthusiastic about food, which I love, she's confident and fun, she's highly knowledgeable, and she made three different salmon entrees (using Regal King salmon) and a dessert in her half hour masterclass. All of which I wanted to try recreating myself as soon as possible. You know sometimes when a recipe is so simple and practical and delicious that you think "why haven't I been making this all the time?" That's how I felt about her salmon recipes.

And as I said, I got to have a chat with her and she graciously answered the three questions I threw down.
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HungryandFrozen x Nadia Lim

Me, Laura Vincent: You've just had a cookbook published. What's something people should know about the process? 

Nadia Lim: Mine was a seasonal cookbook, so if you shoot in winter...I had to use imported stuff which I hated, because I'm a huge fan of eating seasonally and locally, it was a huge dilemma. There are things I had to leave out...and some things I just couldn't use at all, like I couldn't put feijoas in. That was a challenge.

Me: I hear that. I am struggling to find strawberries for my photos. Luckily butter's always in season... I think it's awesome that you're young - 26 - and you've got a cookbook, you won this TV show, you're out there getting yours. In an industry generally presided over by older males, what do you think a younger perspective brings?

Nadia: I've always stayed pretty true to my food philosophy. When I was twelve I came up with my philosophy of 'eating from the ground, the sea and the sky, not the factory. But when you're younger, you're more more willing to learn new things. Sometimes people are a little stuck in their ways, their techniques, how they do things, but I'm very adaptable and I like to learn from lots of different people, I'm really open to it. And I also think the young generation has a real responsibility, now we're going back to more, you know, finding out about your ingredients. Whether they're ethical, sustainable, healthy, what their environmental impact is. That's really important.

Me: Say someone gave you a million dollars and you could travel anywhere in the world to eat their food-

Nadia [immediately]: Turkey. Yes. I love Middle Eastern flavours. I haven't been to the Middle East yet but I use a lot of their ingredients in my cooking. I love things like pomegranates, dukkah, labne...Turkish cuisine often - well, you know the flavour wheel, of whether your tastes are more tart/sour dominant or sweet, or salty...I'm quite sour orientated, and a lot of their food is quite tart, like their cheeses, and pomegranate molasses.

Me: And sumac?
Nadia: Yeah! They use so many things that I love in that type of cuisine, and it's quite healthy, lots of grains and vegetables and freshly made food.

Me: I have spent one afternoon in Turkey - I didn't eat anything, I had one glass of apple tea. 

Nadia: Apple tea is so good!

Me: Yes! Based on that I can definitely recommend the place. And thanks heaps for your time.

Nadia: Thank you!
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Thanks again Nadia Lim, now established as my second-favourite Nadia, right after Ms Comaneci.

In a world where there is so much to be outraged at, like awful pizza companies being awful, I'd like to also throw some light on some things making me happy lately. Whittaker's sent me a wealth of their wonderful chocolate to assist my recipe testing, for which I'd like to individually hug every single Whittaker's employee. Tim and I found out we're going to be able to go behind the scenes at Third Man Records and will get to talk to co-founder Ben Swank when we're in Nashville in October. We went to a Whisky Breakfast for Wellington on a Plate at Arthur's cafe - our friend Kim has some glorious photos here on her blog. I got to meet Nadia Lim (okay, you already know that from just ten seconds ago, but I'm not above recycling nice news.) I finally finished and uploaded episode 3 of my podcast, The HungryandFrozen #soimportant Podcast. You can listen on iTunes or on the website. If you like.

And finally, this excellent cat video made me laugh.
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Title via: Was *this* close to quoting the 'jaded mandarin' line from Jesus Christ Superstar, which I thought for a long time was Judas calling Jesus a mandarin as in the fruit. But instead: MARY POPPINS with A Spoonful of Sugar. She is so important. 
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Music lately:

Willy Moon, I Wanna Be Your Man. He is one smooth babe.

Placebo, Slave to the Wage. Forgot how much I love them.

Sister Rosetta Tharpe, Down By The Riverside. She is the coolest.
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Next time: I'm as shocked as anyone, but it's nearly spring! I'm hoping there'll be some new fruit and vegetables coming in soon...I love winter so much but I'm ready for more fruit and for asparagus!

PS: I totally forgot to upload the photos first time I published this. Fail! But lots of people reminded me right away. Hooray for the people!

how lucky can you get?

I intended on publishing this on Thursday or Friday, but a ton of other things got in the way, and then Tim and I have spent the last 24 hours driving many, many, many and then some miles to visit his grandparents, having realised we hadn't done it in a while and it was an important thing to do. I'm all good with family outweighing this blog, just as I'm cool with this blog outweighing my need to sleep and generally function. Let's go, on with the show.

You know what I love? What really makes me want to hug myself but also not want to draw attention to it for fear of breaking the spell and then it'll all be over? Spontaneous good times. I just wish I could schedule them into my life more often. Like, "You there! Closest friends of mine! Nothing's happening this Saturday, so let's all pretend like we're going to do other things separately but actually we all secretly understand that we'll meet at someone's house at 9pm and then drink lots of whisky and stay up all night talking about our lives and feelings!" Obviously life doesn't actually work like that, but I think if we all tried to maintain this pretense, it could be quite, quite rewarding.

I say this because last Saturday, after a five-hour photoshoot for The Cookbook, we had a couple of people round for a game of Game of Thrones. (Yes, it's a boardgame; no, it's not just a group of us dressing up and talking all ye olde and calling everything we drink Summerwine or Good Brown Ale; yes I would probably be up for that too though; no there is no alternative to calling the board game 'Game of Game of Thrones'.) That photoshoot was particularly exhausting - sounds ridiculous, but it takes it out of a person - we were all super low in energy when it was done, and I figured it was going to be a very quiet night. Smash cut to 11:00pm when I tweeted "Everyone in the world is at our house and no-one is allowed to leave until they've drank all our alcohol and eaten all our food" (because if I like you, that's the kind of host I am.) There was a dance party in the kitchen. There was the Game of Thrones TV theme song sung while Brendan played it on the accordion (which is the most magnificent thing to hear - not us singing along with it so much, but the accordion itself - so imposing!). There was, well, pretty much everything the tweet implied. 

It was so fun, and I had no idea it was going to happen. So let's all plan for more spontaneous times, okay everyone?

But what about this chocolate cake already? It's from Lucky Peach magazine, 'a quarterly journal of food and writing', exploring food with a kind of irreverence and fearlessness and coolness that hasn't quite been done before, which in this everything-has-been-quite-done-before world is impressive. Like: David Simon, creator of The Wire and Treme, writes about his father's love of sodium in this latest issue. By way of shorthand illustration of its coolth. (Also: coolth is a word. Cool huh!)

It's not pretty, it's occasionally kinda ugly, but the design is compelling and fun and the writing is generally super brilliant. It's expensive but it's only out four times a year and it'll probably take me a quarter of a year just to read this issue. And it has this cake from pastry chef/musician Brooks Headley. It appealed to me - a plain, but excellent-sounding chocolate cake is what everyone needs up their sleeve (figuratively) and in their mouths (literally). The recipe is all in cups, being American, and in the magazine it was three times bigger than this - all I needed was one cake so I scaled it back. Forty-five minutes later when I finally figured out the mathematics of it all, I can attest that it is a fantastic recipe.

Chocolate Olive-Oil Cake, by Brooks Headley, from Issue 4 of Lucky Peach

Life is strange. I buy really expensive cocoa which actually tastes like chocolate, and used that here, but I couldn't bring myself to use a full 2/3 cup of also-pricey olive oil, so I went for 1/3 cup olive oil and 1/3 cup plain cooking oil. You do what you like.

1/2 cup cocoa 

2/3 cup water

1 1/3 cups flour

1 1/3 cups sugar

1/2 t baking soda

1 t salt

2/3 cup buttermilk (I used unsweetened natural yoghurt)

2/3 cup olive oil

1 egg

Set your oven to 170 C and line a 20 or 21cm caketin with baking paper. 

The hardest thing you'll have to do is heat the water and cocoa together. So to do that: in a decent-sized pot or pan, since you might as well mix everything else into it, stir the cocoa and the water together and heat gently - continuing to stir so it doesn't burn - until it just starts to bubble. Remove from the heat and allow to cool down some - I filled the sink with an inch of cold water and whisked the cocoa and water to move this process along - then whisk in the remaining ingredients. Pour into your caketin and bake for around 30 minutes. 

Brooks states that this recipe is "foolproof". I am wary of this description. Getting your learner driver license is foolproof, they told me. Well this fool just failed, I replied, tearfully. It goes on. But this cake really is very straightforward. And importantly: delicious. Don't be scared of the olive oil, it has its own nutty, buttery flavours that are perfect for chocolate and it makes for a long-lasting cake with a light crumb. I made this to augment the contents of the 'snack table' during some photoshoots this week and the final slice, eaten for breakfast yesterday before driving up to Tim's grandparents' place, was every bit as good as the first.

So thanks, Lucky Peach. Long may you be excellent.
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Title via: How Lucky Can You Get, the Kander and Ebb song from Funny Lady, the sequel to Funny Girl. I love Barbra, but Julia Murney interprets it deliciously. As she does with everything. 
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Music Lately:

Frank Ocean, Bad Religion. OBSESSED.

It's not music, but I have been watching this video lots and crying nearly every time, which is what I tend to do with music anyway. Nadia Comaneci in 1976, getting - spoiler alert - a perfect 10 for her floor routine. I used to be so (here comes that word again) obsessed with her as a kid, and youtube has helped me remember just why.
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Next time: Whatever it is, I'll blog about it sooner this time, promise!

don't you wanna be the life of the party? don't you wanna be the cream of the crop?

Guess what? I'm better! I nay have a cold anymore! No longer need I use handtowels as handkerchiefs (a mere handkerchief couldn't sponge up my nose's output! Just wallow in that image for a moment) or erode the roof of my mouth with pungent eucalyptine lozenges or down painkillers because my head feels like it's shrinking around my brain.

Guess what other thing? I have pretty much taken over the lives of my friends in the process of this cookbook. Now I love, just love, being the centre of attention, but now that I am genuinely the centre of attention, I feel a little wary that because I have three friends in the role of photographers and stylist for the book, that every time we talk or meet for something it's all about me. Even though I enjoy talking about myself. Why, just look at me making it all about me in my concern that it's all about me even though I love it being all about me, via the most all-about-me medium there is, a personal blog! But generally this is a pretty stupid thing to wring one's hands over, especially as the photoshoot process is going amazingly so far. I truly love the images I've seen so far from Kim and Jason, and Kate has been the most brilliant stylist, with more eye for detail than a fox pursuing walnuts (it's a vegetarian fox). Tim has also shown aplomb as project manager, which involves tasks from the arduous - making sense of my hopeless document-naming system, doing dishes while I lie dramatically prostrate on the couch - to the resourceful, using his wiles to charm vast quantities of excellent coffee from the good people at Customs Brew Bar (he also used money to charm the coffee from them, but let's not let facts get in the way of a good story.) And hey, get a load of these behind the scenes photos! Which really show you nothing at all, but still.  

And mercifully for our bank balances (buying ingredients but also existing on one income is a challenge, but these are happy times, so we can deal with it) the recipe-testing process has ranged from the merely successful to the 'intermingling tears of smugness, joy and relief at the deliciousness I hath wrought' kind of successful.

In the meantime, we still have to eat stuff, and this - Beetroot Baked in Cream, Balsamic Vinegar and Cumin with Spaghetti, Thyme and Pinenuts - was one such eaten stuff recently. It was just an idea I had, that so often beetroot is paired with sharper flavours when in fact it might lend itself perfectly to something richer. The cream makes it luxurious - I'm not talking something you should feel guilty over, or like you immediately have to go for a run afterwards to compensate for - because I would never talk like that anyway. I mean luxurious as in lifting the beetroot from its usual clean, austere nature and transforming it into something with a wealth of flavour as dense and layered and rich as a steak or roasted mushrooms. Cream. It is wonderful stuff. Not least because it can turn itself into butter.

During their time in the oven, the beetroot and the cream - two fairly dissimilar ingredients - start to meld, the sugars in both begin to caramelise, the silky texture of the cream echoes the soft, yielding beetroot, their more nutty elements become more emphasised together. And most gloriously of all, the cream turns a blinding, intensely bright pink.

It's like you've melted MAC Lady Danger lipstick all over your dinner, and leaving aside how gross that would actually be, it's a notion that kinda pleases me. Why can't more food be this pink and this delicious?

Beetroot Baked with Cream, Balsamic Vinegar and Cumin with Spaghetti, Thyme and Pinenuts


A recipe by myself. You could of course serve this over rice or couscous or whatever, I just really, really, really, really love pasta. 


3 medium beetroot
3/4 cup cream
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
200g spaghetti (or linguine, or whatever long twirl-able pasta you like)
A small handful of fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons pinenuts


Set the oven to 190 C. Trim the tops and tails from the beetroot, and scrub them if they've got any dirt clinging. Slice in half and then slice those halves into semicircles - a bit like how you might cut an onion. Lay the slices in a roasting dish, not worrying if they overlap, and pour over the cream. Sprinkle over the salt, vinegar and cumin, then cover with tinfoil and bake for half an hour. Remove the tinfoil, and bake for another half hour. The cream will bubble freakishly, but don't worry. This is all good. 

Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water as per packet instructions, then drain and divide between two plates. Spoon the beetroot and its fuchsia sauce over the spaghetti, then throw the nuts and the thyme leaves on top and serve.

A scattering of rich thyme leaves and a precious handful of pinenuts (seriously, those things are expensive like diamonds) makes it all come together, and also tones down the retina-searing brightness some.

Last time I blogged I mentioned I was getting ready to dress up as a Gold Lion for a Wild Animals party organised by two friends of mine, both named Jo. I found a gold sparkly dress (the sequins of which scratched my arms up no end, but I danced through it) and a friend of mine plaited my hair with pipe cleaners and pinned them into lion's ears like so:

And I put on sliiightly more makeup than usual. Like food, I enjoy my makeup bright and plentiful. The party was so much fun and I danced so hard with my fellow animal-dressed friends and increasing the joy even further, all proceeds went to the Wellington SPCA. The only dark spot in a glorious evening was the dudebros who yelled homophobic slurs from a bar balcony at a bunny-ears-wearing Tim on our walk home, which is wrong for so many reasons that I won't overexplain to you (my main concerns being gay cannot continue to be used as an insult, and also what if they weren't on that balcony? What if they were on the street with us?) We sometimes refer to what we call our 'liberal bubble' that our friends and I float around in, and like that night, occasionally the bubble gets popped with a harsh knifestab.

That fleeting moment of horribleness aside, the weekend was so glorious, especially when we got to hang out with some real animals at Jo's house while watching Veronica Mars on Sunday evening, reminding me with a brief heart contraction just how much I love cats, how much I love Veronica Mars, and, bringing this blog post full circle, how much I love my friends. Either that or my heart was processing some cholesterol. But I think it was sentimentality!
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Title via: I've used this before as a title, but it's so incredibly good that I just want to use it in every single blog post. The always-sublime Idina Menzel, getting dark and ugly in Life of the Party from Andrew Lippa's musical The Wild Party. 
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Music lately:

I am totally a Liza fan, but a young Judi Dench's version of Sally Bowles in the original London cast of Cabaret is so worth your ears - aching, intense, careless, and with the most charming, charming husky voice as she sings the title song.

I spied this cover on my friend Coley's Facebook. Now, I do not like the Kings of Leon song Sex on Fire. But do you know who can make it effortlessly incredible? Beyonce. And I wish I had even one sixteenth of her gold-lion-ness.
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Next time: I am aware that there has been little-to-know pudding or cake or ice cream on the blog lately. This is not like me, and I will remedy it. 

too much of something is bad enough

Did I really hate brussels sprouts while growing up, or did all the American TV shows and movies I watched with feverish fervour make me think I didn't like them? Well, I've already asked that question here when I blogged about Ottolenghi's Brussels Sprouts with Tofu, and as it does not behoove me to repeat content, I won't, and will instead just direct you back to that (although the long story short answer is: kinda the former, kinda the latter.) Anyway, where I'm going with this is that it's no great revelation to announce that people are generally suspicious of brussels sprouts, and I believe this usually stems from people - or more specifically, people's parents - having zero knowledge of what to do with them. And so they did what you did with all vegetables back in the day: boiled them. Boiled them till they were formless, flavourless, unloveable and interchangeable.



What you should really be doing with brussels sprouts is frying them or roasting them. No longer are they bitter, flappy mini-cabbages of sorrow. Instead when applied to direct heat or when blasted under a hot oven, they become crisp, wonderfully nutty, crunchy, and deeply delicious. Not only nothing to be scared of, but something to eat much of.

The reason I'm currently so pro-sprout, is because I am in the middle of testing a million recipes for my upcoming cookbook (which is, in itself, an intensely delicious thing to say out loud, well on paper, well on this screen, anyway) and the things I'm testing right now are largely within the genre of cake. We are surrounded by cakes. This is fantastic. However, I enjoy a little contrast, and my tastebuds have reacted to all this cake by craving intensely savoury food. Hence why I made myself this for lunch yesterday.

Couscous with Fried Brussels Sprouts, Cardamom and Sesame Seeds

A recipe by myself.

This is more a suggestion than anything. I like cardamom's eucalytpy-lemony bite, and I just had some cooked couscous in the fridge. You could use whichever spices you please, and mix it with rice, or bulgur wheat, or quinoa, or anything. But let's suppose you do have these ingredients - here's what you'd do.

6 brussels sprouts
Olive oil
3 cardamom pods, roughly sliced so that the pods are pierced but not halved entirely.
1/2 cup cooked couscous
1 lemon
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Trim the bases from the sprouts, then quarter them lengthwise. Heat about 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a pan, and throw in the sprouts and the cardamom seeds once it's hot. Push them round so that one of the cut sides of each quarter is facing down on the hot pan. Place a lid on top and leave for a couple of minutes. This will allow the sprouts to fry and crisp up slightly, while also steaming them a little too, to actually cook them. Remove the lid and stir around - they should be considerably browned in places. Throw in the couscous and sesame seeds and squeeze in the juice of the lemons. Stir around to combine, then tip onto a plate. 

It might not sound like much but it's a pretty perfect lunch, full of crunch and warmth and nutty deliciousness. And after eating it, I'm ready to face the cake again.

So guess what? I'm still kinda sick with that stupid head cold/flu/thing. Not nearly as sick, but still blowing my nose and coughing juuuuust enough to not feel entirely done with it. I am, however, well enough to get dressed up as a gold lion for a wild animal-themed party tonight. No doubt there will be amusing tails (haha!) to tell and photos to share once it's done...in the meantime I'm looking forward to wearing lots of makeup, making my hair enormous (my main motivation for dressing up as a lion, I'll be honest - I'm all about the big hair) and dancing big.
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Title via: The so important Spice Girls, with their single Too Much from their second album Spiceworld. This song is rather gorgeous and still holds up well. And the video is amongst their most babein-est, and sometimes too much of nothing really is just as tough, you know?
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Music lately:

Bernadette Peters, spookily ageless, always tears-inducingly good, singing No-one Is Alone from Into The Woods. Whether or not it's true, it's nice to have her sing it to you at least.

Ini Kamoze, Here Come The Hotstepper. You could play this to me at 4am on a rainy night after I'd been doing a graveyard shift as a bricklayer and I'd still get up and dance to it.
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Next time: I will not be sick, and I might have come round to the idea of sugar again.

you know i gave that horse a carrot so he'd break your foot

So much for my posturing about how unemployment would mean I'd be able to blog all super-regularly, because guess what? I'm still sick. After all this time. And I've been too sick to cook. If I don't cook, I can't blog. And if I can't blog, do I exist? I'm kidding, sort of. But yeah. Sick sucks. My cookbook writing didn't start with the leader-of-the-pack style motorbike revving that I anticipated, but with a more of a sniffle and a wheeze. 

I've spent the past four days up home at my parents' place - after a flight to Auckland where I was in such a hazy, groggy daze of weak hopelessness I was terrified that I was going to be pulled aside by security for suspicion of being on and/or carrying multitudes of drugs. I'm not sure 'it's just the cough syrup, honest' or even 'if I was, surely I'd be having fun than this' is a defense they'd believe.

I had plans to test a ton of recipes for the cookbook while up home, of writing half the book, of doing a tour of royal proportions of my family in the area...but instead I just spent the whole time on the couch. It was kinda lovely though. Mum giving me old family cookware to use as props in the cookbook (and also to use in real life of course); Dad discussing asset sales with me; my younger brother making me never prouder by bringing up the Bechdel test out of nowhere while we were talking about movies. My nana surprising me by appearing in the car that picked me up from the airport, my godmother dropping in with a gift of lemons and chillis, my old babysitter who's now a prison warden (no coincidence I'm sure) visiting after years and years away. And me on the couch, wrapped up in a feather duvet, in front of a constantly going fireplace. It was excellent.

I should also mention me discussing how much I loved the cats with the cats themselves. They were fairly impervious to my advancements.

I was, however, rewarded with indescribable happiness when I woke up to find Poppy curled up on my bed. The former Jessica Wakefield/Baby Raptor kitten has mellowed into the softest, cutest cat. Also may I draw attention to the world's most splendid bedspread? Instagram actually softens its effect somewhat, you really need to see it in person (not that that's an invite) to appreciate its shiny, synthetic, unforgivably fluoro resplendence. 

So I returned to Wellington yesterday afternoon, finally with a flicker of hunger to cook and eat again, which is good, because I have a million recipes to test. It was late afternoon and a snack was needed. Something simple. Something cheap. Something that would remind me that I actually like to cook and eat. Who do I turn to? Nigella of course, always. Nigella and her awesomely named Rainbow Room Carrot and Peanut Salad. 

Depending on your tastebuds and their sense of style, this salad might sound weird. Like something that you might have made in the hopes of impressing someone in the late 1970s. Like there's too much going on, like there's not nearly enough going on. But it works - the different levels of crunchiness, the nutty sweetness, the salty, oily, sourness - all elements coming together to form something that you won't be able to eat fast enough, I promise. I normally never peel my carrots by the way, but the ones I found in the fridge were a bit elderly and bendy...you know...so I made an exception. Kindly note the sunny yellow knife, a congratulatory present from Mum for getting the cookbook. And the tea towel came from her too. I told you I had a good time at home.

The Rainbow Room Carrot and Peanut Salad
From Nigella Lawson's book Forever Summer.

4 carrots, scrubbed
75g salted peanuts
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)
2 tablespoons peanut oil
A few drops sesame oil

Grate or thinly slice the carrots. Mix with the peanuts. Mix in the vinegar and oil. There you have it. 

This also works well with salted roasted cashews, if you're not peanut-inclined. But there's something in the carrots' own nutty sweetness that goes so brilliantly here.

Will I ever tire of framing photos this way? Maybe not till those flowers wilt beyond recognition. And I've had them since before Christmas, so I don't fancy your chances...

I admit, there was one evening in the last two weeks involving Soju and karaoke and red wine. But a dear, dear friend was moving to Japan, so what can you do? I'm pretty sure that the length of this sickness is not due to that one night. Maybe it threw my recovery off-course slightly, but nothing more than that. All I can say is, I'd better be better by the next time I blog here. I don't want to be sick forever!
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Title via: The White Stripes, that enigmatic duo with a permanent place in Tim's and my hearts, and Well It's True That We Love One Another, the final track on their album Elephant.
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Music lately: 

Frank Ocean, Channel Orange - stream the whole stunner mixtape here.

Vulindlela, by Brenda Fassie. I don't know what she's singing, but it's so full of joy and beauty that it doesn't matter. I mean, I want to know, but this is enough for now.

Nothing like thinking of those worse off than yourself when you're sick - Fantine's big number I Dreamed A Dream from Les Mis made me feel positively healthy every time I listened to it. And anything's more healthy than Patti LuPone's wig here.
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Next time: I. Will. Not. Be. Sick.

i saw the sign, and it opened up my eyes i saw the sign

It was Tuesday, May 21 when I got the phone call confirming that I had a cookbook deal. I've already talked about how, while waiting for that phone call, I watched clip after clip of inspiring Broadway videos and Leslie Knope achieving stuff. But before all that, I was, to keep myself sane, keeping an eye out for good signs. You know, little things that felt like the universe was giving me a thumbs up. Here's the list I made on the day:

- I saw Bernie, the magical giant-hound-about-town, on the way to work.

- Barack Obama tweeted "Clear eyes, full hearts" and a photo of himself throwing a football. I mean, c'mon. That's a good sign any day. 

- Jo tweeted me to let me know the actress who plays Arya on Game of Thrones was photographed wearing very similar bold pants to mine. I really wanted to get this cookbook okay people, and I was going to see good signs where I wanted to see them. 

-Tim and I beat our personal best time at getting to Customs Brew Bar that morning for a pre-work coffee, despite it feeling like we were going to be late.

-There was a man I've never seen, before or since, busking underneath my window, playing Beauty and the Beast on the saxophone. Anything that calls to mind the human hug that is Angela Lansbury has to be a good sign.

-And finally, spoilers ahoy, I felt like the way season four of Parks and Rec finished meant I just had to get this. 

Now I'm not super-superstitious - not as much as I used to be, anyway - plenty of life is just horribly, weirdly random. But still, I can't help taking note of things like that when they come along.

So I was a bit concerned, because this week marked my very first days of writing my cookbook, the days I pictured spending typing furiously, drinking bottomless black coffee and gazing happily out the window, perhaps while an accordion plays somewhere in the background. I would possibly also be wearing a beret. 

And this week, I got sick. Kitten-weak, coughing constantly, aching head, my nasal passages like high pressure hoses jetting forth mucus, brain fuzzy as the ugg boots I wore to stay warm. You could say it's not the best sign that this cookbook's going to be amazing.

But I've decided to take it as a good sign. First, I'm hoping that being sick now at the start of Winter will mean I'm cool for the rest of it. Secondly, it neatly did away with any first-day-on-the-job awkwardness. Thirdly, after months of burning away on less than six hours sleep a night to put in the work to make myself as cookbook-worthy as possible, some enforced rest is kinda nice.

But yeah, did I mention kitten-weak? I could hardly lift my head yesterday. However there was a small window where hunger, my sense of taste returning, and my ability to stand up straight intersected, and I made good on it by cooking myself up some tomato soup, with sake, chilli, and cinnamon in its cherry-red depths. That aside, this is really just a can of tomatoes and some water, so as well as the fact that it ain't no thing to make, it also costs little.

Tomato Soup with Sake, Chilli and Cinnamon.

A recipe by myself.

1 can tomatoes in juice (crushed makes your life easier, but sometimes whole are cheaper, so go with what you know.)
1 heaped teaspoon sambal oelek OR 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced
1 tablespoon semolina
1 shotglass of sake
Cinnamon and salt to taste

Open the can of tomatoes and tip it into a pan. Fill up the can with water and tip that into the pan too. Add the sambal oelek or chilli, bring to the boil then simmer for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally. If you're using whole canned tomatoes, mash them up with your wooden spoon as you go. Sprinkle over the semolina, stir it in quickly, and simmer for another five minutes till the soup is thickened. Finally, stir in the sake and a dusting of cinnamon (not even a quarter of a teaspoon - just shake some into your hand and scatter it in from there) plus salt to taste, and serve. 

Serves 1 - although easily multiplied for more.

Tomato soup is what it is - you either like it or don't. This is special yet nothing special at the same time, making it a rather perfect lunch. There's something inimitable about sake's clean yet buttery taste and the way it mingles with the slow-simmered tomatoes. The semolina swells and thickens the soup superbly, and the chilli and cinnamon add necessary, fragrant warmth, generally distracting you entirely from the metallic beginnings of these tomatoes. If you don't have sake kicking around, use sherry, and if you don't have that kicking around, this will still be really nice, so fear not. And if you don't have semolina you could use polenta, or just have your soup a little more watery. However, there is also something to be said for following my recipe as it is, too.

So I ate it for lunch yesterday with a cup of hot lime and honey - the lime simply a different take on the usual lemon drink that I've been having nonstop for the last few days. And it was wonderful.

I had my last day at work on Friday. It's strange not to be going there anymore after so many years. At this stage it just feels like I'm on sick leave, but there is a persistent sense of having left something big behind - it's a little sad, but it's also very, very freeing, and growing more definite. And I left on good terms - the best terms in fact, dancing wildly with everyone at a local bar. Indeed, it's possibly for the best that no-one has to make eye contact with me immediately following my particular brand of jiving to Tainted Love. I can't help it, when the music plays I dance big, and I dance freely.

And any lingering feelings of "what have I dooooooone" were dissolved quickly on Saturday night at an amazing potluck dinner at our dear friend Jo's (the same one who told me about Arya's pants.) Friends that you feel comfortable enough to have a fullness-induced (slightly mulled wine-induced too, to be fair) lie-down in front of are good friends indeed. Seriously, when I get too full I have to lie down, and there's really not many places outside the home that I can feasibly follow through with it.

So this is me now - not wearing a cool beret (or even an uncool beret), not having written gazillions of pages of my cookbook, and not feeling particularly well.

But I've made a tiny bit of progress and if nothing else there's no sickness, it seems, that the right filter on instagram can't fix. The journey has begun. And if it begins with me wearing my teenage-throwback Bjork buns and a blanket my mum crocheted for me and using a handtowel as a handkerchief because a mere handkerchief can't sustain what my nose is throwing down, then so be it! 

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Title via: Ace of Base, The Sign. You know life like, is demanding, without understanding? 

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Music to write a cookbook to:


I already love Janine and the Mixtape's song Bullets, but if anything's going to make me listen to a remix of it, it's the fact that Haz'Beats from Homebrew is behind it. Dreamy as.

Speaking of remixes, listen now to this Scratch 22 remix of Street Chant's Salad Daze. Holy cow, is all I've got.

Was a little tipsy the other night and pulled my typical move of falling into a YouTube black hole of tears-inducing Broadway videos. And there are few more instantly tears-inducing than the late Laurie Beechman. Ugh, just typing it makes me want to cry. Watch her singing On A Clear Day...If you dare.
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Next time: I have the latest Cuisine magazine and am still planning to cook something from that, but whatever it is, hopefully I'll be well enough to make it something a little more involved than a can of tomatoes and some water. But not too involved, you know me.

and i will be alone again tonight my dear

I'm not all that good at just cooking stuff for myself to eat when Tim's not around - which is weird for so many reasons. Like, I love food. And cooking for two people involves only one more person than cooking for one. At best. And I'm not all codependent or anything, honest. But if Tim's not around, I tend to find myself spending the usual dinner-ing hours eating golden syrup or something. Maybe it's because I coincidentally feel like eating golden syrup at those times? I don't know. Sometimes things just happen and there's no reason for it. If I get famous off this cookbook I request that everyone overanalyses it for me in the comments section.

I'm saying this because I had lunch by myself today and I felt like eating something marginally more diverse to the palate than golden syrup. Having spent last night drinking whisky and sloe gin at Brendan's birthday party, I also didn't feel like expending any extraneous energy.

So I made this: Fried Onion Rice with Nuts, Cardamom and Cinnamon. It's literally just onion, rice, nuts, some water and some spices. And yet so much more vigorously flavoured than that restrained list would suggest. I adapted it from a recipe in Nigella Lawson's book Feast, a book I've read about a squillion times, and yet which can still jolt me from my indolence and make me want to cook something for myself immediately.




You do need to really crisp up the onions for this. You know how you're normally supposed to focus on the cooking? With this I encourage you to get distracted. I recommend checking twitter and perhaps peruse an aggregator of viral content like buzzfeed.com - whatever their latest list of animals doing cute stuff is, it should use up just the right amount of time to let the heat of the pan really char those onions. Don't go any further than that though - the onions are for flavour, not just texture - this isn't the time to go getting lost in a 'where are they now' quagmire of looking up 90s actors on Wikipedia or look at every single inexplicably happy photo on someone you used to go to school with's Facebook. We're not building a casserole here, people. 


Fried Onion Rice with Nuts, Cardamom and Cinnamon

Adapted from a recipe from Feast, by Nigella Lawson, moon of my life.


3 tablespoons/a handful/whatever of nuts - almonds, cashews or peanuts are good here
1 onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup basmati or other long grain white rice
Seeds from 3 cardamom pods (just slice the pods in half and shake out the seeds)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Peel, halve, and finely slice your onion. Heat a large pan and toast the nuts in it till lightly browned. Set them aside. Heat the oil in the same pan and fry the onions in it till good and browned - they should have reduced in size with most of them crisp and darkened. Set aside with the nuts. In your same pan, stir the rice and spices over a low heat for a minute - this just helps with the flavour of things - before tipping in 1 cup/250ml water and a pinch of salt and clamping on the lid. Turn the heat down low and let it simmer away without disturbing it for about ten minutes. At this stage the rice should be completely cooked, but if not let it go a little longer. Remove from the heat, stir in the nuts and onions, and shuffle everything onto your plate. Serves 1.

I have tons of cardamom pods - what, I'm a food blogger - but if you don't it's not the end of the world and this is fine with just cinnamon. But cardamom's particularly lemony-gingery, mildly eucalyptus-y flavour lends a particular elegance to the earthier, oilier flavours. But seriously, fried onions, nuts, rice? Some of the nicest things in the world, making this dish a worthy alternative to golden syrup. Less sticky and prone to getting in my hair, too.

Winter is good for so many things: cooking soup and stews and roasts and such; piling on as many soft cosy clothes as you can; weather complaining as a universal conversation topic; less potential for public sweatiness; whisky tastes better. It goes on. But above all of that, I love spending a lot of time watching TV, like really snuggling into a good TV series. I say that, because I really just wanted to say this:

Tim and I have been rewatching the short but incredible Freaks and Geeks and today I discovered I have the exact same sweater as the character Millie Kentner. I happened to be wearing it while we watched this episode. It's difficult to photograph one's self and a screen but trust me: these wooly jumpers are identical. Even in these exciting times, this stands out as a particular milestone.

The last week of June marks the last week of me being at my job - then my main focus in life is going to be bringing this cookbook into existence. It looks like it's going to be a little nightmarish, logistics-wise - but I'm telling myself that I've never been a slave to logic, so everything looks like a logistical nightmare to me. Right? Right. I'll totally get there though. Somehow.

But: if any fancy people out there are reading, but also staring out the window sighing wistfully because you can't find the right freelance foodwriter to pay some money to, may I suggest...myself? While the book is going to take a lot of time I'm hoping to pick up some extra opportunities to bolster my soon-to-be-flailing bank balance. I already do lots of freelancing for reassuringly real things like Sunday Star-Times and 3news.co.nz, and I'll tell you candidly: I think I'm a really good writer. And as another great writer made their awesome character say: thank you for your consideration.

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Title via: Love's Alone Again Or. One of the most excellent songs I've ever heard. So there's that.

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Music lately:

Azealia Banks, Liquorice. Not as immediately, life-changingly gripping as 212, but still super awesome with a catchy as heck chorus.

Nina Simone, Here Comes The Sun. Heard some Nina Simone on the radio today and reflected on how she can pretty much do no wrong, and how I wanted to hear more. So why not this video with its slideshow of unrelated artwork?

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Next time: I got the new Cuisine magazine - maybe something from that? Time will tell, better than I am right now. 

life's candy and the sun's a ball of butter

Is this a second post in a row featuring that bewitching golden distillation that is burnt butter? Affirmative. Is this some kind of salute to butter month that everyone has missed? Noooo...but then every day is Salute to Butter Month...day...when I'm around.

And yes, it is Burnt Butter Ice Cream. Snap Judge Ye Not! I've come to learn that some of my opinions are not the generally held ones (did you know I hated The Shawshank Redemption? And all the sports there are? Apart from watching Olympic gymnastics and figure skating with hands clamped over my eyes because I was scared they'd fall over?) and so I suspect that while I think butter-flavoured ice cream is something I quite casually make and see as normal, others might be horrified and pearl-clutching about. Let me straighten the record: butter flavoured ice cream is wonderful. Really, genuinely, hand-it-to-you-on-a-plate, unthreateningly delicious. Why, it's as real as you and me. 

It is in fact very normal tasting ice cream. Almost bordering-on-disappointingly normal for someone like me, but for the less liberally buttery of you, perhaps a relief. The intensity is muffled somewhat once frozen. What you get this roundly rich, deeply creamy golden ice cream which gives you vividly toffeed caramel flavours and a lingering buttery nuttiness. It just tastes like amazing ice cream.

Be assured, it's not like dragging a spoon across a cold block of butter. Nice as that is.

Be further assured, you don't need an ice cream maker machine thing for this. I don't have one myself, and my love for ice cream is way too river deep, mountain high for me to want to make it all exclusive or anything. All you have to do to this is freeze it.



It's a while since I've made an old-timey custard-based ice cream. Custard ice cream is the patient person's game. This is probably why I've avoided it for a while. But all that's involved is a lot of stirring. As En Vogue said, don't let go - just stand there by the pan stirring and stirring till the mixture finally rewards you by ambiguously thickening slightly. I for one recommend putting on a podcast (like mine, way-hey?) or an audiobook (I had Wuthering Heights) to distract the mind.

Burnt Butter Ice Cream

A recipe by myself.

I did dither over whether to call this browned butter, or just butter, but I like the total un-vagueness of 'burnt', because that's what it is.  

50g butter
2 cups cream
1 cup milk
3 egg yolks
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup white sugar
(Note: New Zealand butter is always salted - if you're using unsalted, add a generous pinch of salt when you add the butter at the end)

First, gather ye a saucepan, a good-sized bowl, and a freezer-proof container (as you can see I just used a glass loaf tin. The kind you might bake a loaf in.) Melt the butter over a decent heat in the saucepan, allowing it to carry on cooking beyond your usual sensibilities. As you can see above, it will start bubbling vigorously and separate out into layers of sorts. Once it's all foamy and bubbly and darkened remove it from the heat and spatula it into a bowl while you get on with everything else.

In that same pan, gently heat up the milk and cream. While this is happening whisk together the yolks and sugars, it doesn't have to be thick, just incorporated. Once the milk/cream has heated sufficiently - you don't want it to boil, just get very hot - turn off the heat and carefully whisk about 1/2 a cup of the milk/cream into the egg/sugar mixture, then another 1/2 cup and another - continually whisking so you don't end up with scrambled eggs.

Then pour all that back into the pan and stir over a low heat, stirring constantly so it doesn't cook too fast. I warn you, this could take around 20 minutes. The texture will thicken to that of a good quality milkshake (if not thickshake) and the bubbles on the surface should minimise. The more egg yolks in your custard the thicker it will get so don't stress too much about it.

Finally, whisk in the butter, which will likely have solidified by this point. Pour everything into your freezerproof container and freeze, without stirring, till it is, unsurprisingly, frozen.

Luckily this ice cream is air-punchingly awesome, because I have been seriously lacking in lustre while writing about it. I am tired. The week started mighty promisingly - seeing the movie version of the Broadway show Rock of Ages with my dear friend Kim, and the subsequent marveling over how disturbingly HAWT Tom Cruise was in it and how much we love Alec Baldwin and Russell Brand's characters and how excellent Mary J Blige's pantsuits are. And how I am ever more in hot pursuit of bigger hair. But since then I haven't slept so well, a good wedge of my brain has been given over to working out details of my upcoming cookbook (obligatory mention!) and financial concerns, general stresses and what's-the-deal-with-my-body annoyances (I mean like, not feeling well, nothing else) and I've been catching feelings like you wouldn't believe.

On the up-and-up, there are Tony Award clips to watch, photos from Jo's Double Super Sweet Sixteenth birthday party and memories of intense bedroom dance parties therein to reminisce over, our October trip to America to plan, a new podcast episode to edit, and this ice cream to eat. Just got to get through June...and everything will be cool.



While I'm generally a bit suspish of over-dressed food photography, I have no defensiveness for this. I'd held onto the jaunty flag decorations from the quadruple layer birthday cake my friends made me for me a few months ago and this one seemed just right plunged possessively on an angle into the ice cream. Also a long-distance hug to my god-parents and their family for the equally jaunty ice cream cups. All the better to eat ice cream out of, hey?
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Title via: Don't Rain on My Parade, from Funny Girl. Here's an effortless version from the sadly late Donna Summer. My very favourite person, Idina Menzel, singing it for Streisand herself at a concert with an adorable shoutout halfway through. And this incredible rendition by Lillias White from a 2002 benefit.

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Music lately:

Rockin Back Inside My Heart, a cover by She's So Rad. As I've said constantly, I'm very obsessed with Julee Cruise's song, but this cover is glorious - the voice is more present and definite than Cruise's, without losing a shred of the song's deliciously dreamy nature.

Fiona Apple Every Single Night. I love this song. Beautiful. Watched the first frame of the music video and decided it wasn't for me though (spoiler: there's an octopus! I like my octopi at a distance!)
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Next time: I promise, something non-buttery. I am super aware of how painfully expensive it is. I'm just slightly more super aware of how delicious it is.